Colors and Spices

What we eat – Is what we are

Keeping our good health in mind

There are days that if we do not have delicious food at hand and noting was especially prepared for us by a cook, so we’ll eat just anything… These days are Holidays and it’s easy to sin… with the special festivity Jewish foods. That’s way we have to check out the calories.
So please, take a little longer and prepare a delicious healthy meal, with glory tast, for the lazy ones in mind.Ingredients: Chicken (in pieces) without the skin. (to remove the skin – please wear disposable gloves, which greatly facilitate the work. You can leave the skin only if the chicken is thin.)  2-4 heads of Onion, 1 Fennel, 4-5 Carrots, 2 Sweet Potatoes, 2 Parsnips.

Spices: 2-3 tablespoons mustard Dijon, 2 teaspoons turmeric, a pinch of black pepper, a handful of black peppercorns, a pinch of salt.

Preparation: First repare the vegetables – slice, peele and share in circles. The fennel cut to four parts. Put the slised onion in a large pot with little bit oil (not olive oil!) Fry shortly, and add the vegetables and a glass of water and the spices. Close the pot and cook for 5 minutes on a low heat. Put the chicken pieces and close the lid. Cook on low heat for about 15 minutes. Turn the chicken pieces in the sauce and add a glass of water. Close the lid and cook another 20 minutes with the lid closed.

Tips: Because each stove have a different fire power, for the first time, please look in the pot occasionally, to see that the food is cooking well and not burning!

Additional dish – Green Salad: Cut lettuce, cucumber, green or red onions, sherry tomatoes, parsley, dill, mint and all the other appropriate green leaves to your taste. Add olive oil, Olives. Squeeze 1/2 a lemon, Just before serving.

Bon Appetite!

25/3/08 train towards Rishikesh (*)

I met on the train from Delhi to Pathankot an Indian man. He was about 50 years old, wearing most modern cloths, colourful, on the bright side of the palette. He was full of happiness, it was impossible not to see it.

After a short small talk about the train time-table, he said to me with joyful face:

I am taking my parents with me to travel around India. He posed shortly, than he added:

Both cremated!

I am taking the two gars everywhere I go.

I spread their ashes into the Ganga river in Varanasi, at Delhi’s wide river, now I am on my way to Rishikesh, I will spread their dust around the Holy Temples and at the Ganga river.

I will be travelling with them all over India. They have never left their hometown, so I take them to travel around India, in all the places they wanted to visit, see but they never did.

He looked at me with a big happy smile and went on to his cabin.

(*) it’s not going back in time, I have got some notes in my rucksack….

Pathankot, 24 April 08

I am in the end of my journey. To reach Delhi I need to take a bus from Mcleod Ganj to Pathankot – a ruff ride of 5 hours, only 130 Km, than a night train to Delhi. I booked a seat at the sleepers compartment – the most exciting part, and checked the time table for the bus. 

I checked-out from the Guest House, which was clean with a nice view, but I didn’t like the attitude and the coldness of the people; every thing was exact but cold. It’s a family Guest House, the family and the extended family lives there; from the in-lows to kids of all ages. Most probably they do not want the influence and close contact with the foreign guests, but for me – an average Israeli, that likes some kind of human contact, it’s too distant; if I wanted that kind of Customer – Guest relationship I would book a room the Ritz Hotel!

They didn’t even ‘manage’ to get me a boy to help me with the bags to the station…. I just left their door step and a few smiley boys offered me to polish my shoes, to curry my begs etc. – just anything to earn a few rupees.

I set in the bus, all packed and ready for the journey. At the front there was a Buddhist Monk with a nice open face organizing his luggage, with him another woman monk and a Westerner. He enquired about my journey and was happy to hear that my destination was to Delhi too.

I looked at my ticket to see and check all the destinations and connections I have in front of me, when I realized that I am on the right bus, but just a day earlier!! I expressed my surprise loudly, and the Monk asked: What Happened?

I had a busy morning: Seeing Dr. Yeshi Dhonden – The Famous Tibetan Doctor, packing my stuff, going to the post office to send home the extended luggage, but I didn’t recheck the schedule…

Quickly I realized I have to make a quick decision, as the bus was going to leave in a few minuets.

What you want to do? Asked me the Monk after I explained him the ‘Balagan’. (disorder in affairs.)

I did not feel it’s right for me to go back, I am ready to move forwards, I said. Is there anything interesting to see around Pathankot? I asked the Monk. Anywhere descent to stay the night?

He actually answered only to the second question ( I realized latter): We ourselves are going to a Tibetan Retreat, they’ll prepare for us nice food, we’ll rest and refresh until the late train. You can come with us, and stay the night, he said.

Tibetan Retreat! I imagined a monastery with a Guest House, library, heem of Monks praying heard in the corridors, just like the Tibetan monasteries I have seen around. With that picture in my mind, I confidently stayed in the bus.

The ride was long, it was extremely hot, sitting in discomfort with loud passengers coming and going. At dark, around 20.00 we arrived. The Monk took the lead; he took a simple Rickshaw (not a car Rickshaw) and the luggage of the four of us was put on top. We’ll walk! Not far! He was heading first and we – 3 women followed his quick steps.

We arrived at the chubbiest livable house I have ever seen. There were lots of steep steps to go up. The rickshaw-man was extremely obedient to the Monk’s orders and he took all the bags upstairs. Than the Monk gave him 20 rupees. Off you go! he closed the deal! the rickshaw-man stood there a while longer astonished, but didn’t dare say a word and moved on.

We entered a large room, few plastic chairs were scattered around, few beds and two big plain tables. A smiling Tibetan looking woman greeted us with warmth. A large photo of the Dalai Lama was positioned in the centre of the room, and an orange cabinet with artificial flowers on top was housing the Dalai Lana’s photos as young. On top, with great respect a large photo of Golden Buddha was placed.

There were other people eating in the room, the atmosphere was relaxed and pleasant. Cold water was offered immediately and than our request for food to be prepared. The Monk and me ordered Tibetan veg. soup with noodles = Topa. The Polish woman and the Tibetan Monk craved for meat and ordered a meat dish. The Monk felt pretty at home went for a wash, and the food arrived quickly; the two young boys served us with efficiency. 

Don’t ask about the toilet and washrooms, said to me the Polish women in a quiet voice.

I was at the Tibetan Retreat! Every thing was plain but I felt at ease, the hospitality was greater than any luxury. The Monk asked me if I want to move to a better Guest House, but I decided to stay. Soon enough all the guests left, one was heading to Nepal, another to Ladakh’s area, and I was given the large bed. I was woken up at 06.00 AM as the boys started cleaning the room for the new day. At 08.00 o’clock a Tibetan cooked breakfast was served to 5 Tibetan passengers, all men.

The two Indian boys age 11, ageless, were all over the place cleaning and serving the guests. They did not speak English, and hardly spoke at all, in mostly men’s environment. They do not go to school, nor read or write. Their only knowledge they enquire is trough watching Indian agressive movies at the guests requirement. I do not know their story, but they have at the woman’s Tibetan Retreat hot food, clean beds, and good treatment. The Cook is a young woman from Ladakh, she slept at the other side of the room, hardly noticable.

I am off to go about town to look around; the main and only attraction is the main train station that was newly build!!! so I will spent my time in the Internet shop = Thank God, for that invention!

For me the main attraction was meeting this people that managed to survive in odd jobs and ruff situations, meeting the Tibetan woman that runs her business firmly with care, pride and love.

Late Addition:

1. The brother-in-law of the Tibetan Woman came later for a visit, he told me that the Tibetan Retreat was opened on 1968 by an uncle for the Tibetan refugees that fled from China to India. The house had ups and downs and even was going to be closed after the death of the old uncle.

2. Rinzi – The Tibetan Woman insisted to curry on her shoulders my two heavy bags to the station. She was so full of love to me. At the station we hugged like we knew each other ages ago.

3. The Pathankot Market happened to be a nice lively friendly market.

22th April 08, McLeod Ganj, Dharmashala. Traveling by local bus to Gyuto Monastery.

I am going to meet The 17th Gyalwang Karmapa in half an hour time.

His Holiness the 17th Gyalwang Karmapa, is the head of the 900 year old Karma Kagyu Lineage and guide to millions of Buddhists around the world.

Born in 1985, the Karmapa resides in his temporary home at Gyuto Monastery in India after making a dramatic escape from Tibet in the year 2000.

The 17th Gyalwang Karmapa is the second of importance after the Dalai Lama.

I do not know what drove me so urgently to meet The Karmapa, but it looked right and immediate for me to meet him, at the end of my journey. I was more than happy that it did happened!

On Sarurday I went to the Gyuto Monastery were Karmapa’s home is permanently located. He is the second of importance after the Dalai Lama. He is 23 years old now, and was chosen at the age of 3. Until the age of 21 he studied and got prepared for the high position in the Tibetan world. He is the 17th Gyalwa Karma-pa, and now he is taken the full responsibilities as the spiritual Karma Kagyan lineage of Tibetan Buddhism. He was smuggled to India at the age of 14.

The young Buddhist priest that sets the meetings, asked me about the reasons and what are the needs of me to meet the Karma-pa. He questioned me of the importance of that meeting for me, looking deep into my eyes, watching at my body language. Then he asked me: “You are not a Buddhist, aren’t you? Ask not too many questions!” he added.

At the end he was convinced. But then the priest asked me: “What are Your questions? that you are going to ask him?”

I stopped breathing and stopped thinking! I didn’t know what to answer him. What were my important questions???

I was with another Israeli woman, that hesitated about the all thing, and he quickly noticed it, and pushed her aside. He did not waist time, and was going to talk to the next guy queuing after me.

I had to focus and give him quickly my questions!

“Two questions!!” I said with great confidence.

“I am going to ask The Karmapa two important questions, one personal and one on collective matters!”

He looked at me again with some interest. “Give me your passport.” He said. “Karmapa is very busy, he sees just very few people a day.”
I had to tell the Buddhist monk my questions, before signing me in! and I did.

The meeting was set in 2 days time, as I told him that I am leaving India. I was very happy that I convinced him.

I was extremely excited before the meeting with the Karmapa. Strange enough already in the bus I felt on the edge of cry.

I felt clean and pure as Cristal in my talk with Karmapa!

I’ll wrote about that special meeting with The Karmapa, in my blog in Hebrew on 5.6.2021 – פגישה אישית עם רום מעלתו – הקרמה-פה

No doubt, today was one of the most wonderful days in my journey. After the meeting to relax, I had Tibetan soup with a Chines guy called Lixuan. He was sitting next to me.

A few days after the meeting with Karmapa I went to Norbulinka Institute.

Norbulinka – is an institute preserving Tibetan Culture. (pics. Below)
I saw artists painting the Thangka paintings which are in use as a basis for meditative practicing. It was great sitting in the Japanese gardens and listening to the dream-like waterfalls.

Laxman Jhula, Rishikesh 11/4/08

Ms. Jayalalithaa drew my attention since the first day I landed in India. Huge posters of a woman’s face were looking at me all the way from the Chennai’s Air Port. In a city of 7++ million people, that kind of a large poster makes a remarkable statement, soon enough I realized that she is of great importance.

The next days I learned that she is a powerful politician, and she just celebrated her 60th birthday. She was a member in the Indian Parliament for many years and was the chief minister of Tamil Nadu – a big county that included Chennai. She was an actress as young, but than she moved to politics with great success, never married.

It happened to be that my Guest House that I stayed in Chennai, was a walking distance from her home. I wouldn’t know about it other wise, but the Police closed all the roads around her house on regular basis. On one day they were some 50-60 very posh cars in the near-by streets, and a line of chauffeurs were waiting for their bosses.

In some days, people from all over the country came to greet Jayalalithaa, as they saw her a Healer, a Holy Amma etc.

On her posters it’s written: AMMA IS GOD!

Jayalalithaa has a lot of power as she have the support and admiration of the masses; she attracts a lot of attention; most probably she have enemies too; she is on regular basis in the news, keeping always a high profile.

I met a woman in a the bus on the way to Bangalore, she spoke very highly of her, she said to me in an excellent English: Jayalalithaa gave a lot of confidence to the Indian women with her courage and powerful performance in politics – it was her new stage!!