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Marco Pola - A traveller (f)

Cochin and me

…and/or Who is a Jew?

Cochin, India 10/03/08

When travelling in India there is so much to see in that vast continent, and so many wonderful places, that’s important to choose the subject matter of ones interest.

I choose to visit Cochin because of the Jewish long history of the town, so I travelled 20 hours on 3 trains to get there.

I am happy to announce again that Jewish roots are deep inside me – even being an ‘Yehudi Chilony’. (Yehudia Chilonit)
My Jewishness is wakened when needed. [In my visit in Bet Chabad in Bangkok, when talking to the Rabi, he said: It’s a wrong to use the word ‘Chilony’ as it means ‘chol’ = ‘Sand’, and Jewish are Holy. Which means that it have to be reminded to the Media, Press and New publications etc.]

Typical window in Jew Road, Cochin

Seeing that long Jewish history of that picturesque town, and the vivid road called: Jew Town – a busy place, full of business with lovely spicy aroma all over that street. Lucky enough the name of that old street was not renamed.

That opened in me the wounds of our unresolved political situation in my home land = Israel.

Cochin brings a history of town that it’s people embraced the Jews for many generations. They were welcomed because of the Jews unique business qualities & ability, that was needy for the business & trade of the town with the out side world, they exported: spices, tea, ivory, teak, oils, peacocks etc. – .

On 1568 the synagogue of Cochin was build, extremely near the Maharajah’s Palace. The walls of Maharajah’s palace touched the synagogue’s court yard, the cemetery, & the congregations homes, all to protect the Jews!

The Jews first settled in that part of India, as far as 992 BC on Sholom’s time, the King of Israel. Than, when the Jews fled on 70 AC all over the wold and to India, some say. Joseph Raba – A Jewish leader, got the Magna Carta in Cochin on 379 AC, 3 pliz plates that declared honor to the Jews. Even Marco Polo among ancient travellers mentioned Jews in Quilon.
Joseph AZAR, a Jewish Prince swam with his wife on his back on 1524. They fled from the Portuguese (at time of the Spanish Acquisition) and got the protection of the Maharajah of Cochin. Hs was later the one to build the Synagogue. In one of the paintings we can see the Maharajah’s family watching over the window looking at the synagogue’s foundations.

The Synagogue itself is full of visitors from all ever the world. The atmosphere if of tranquility and simplicity with old glory. It’s one of the 10 main attractions of the city. The main hall is nearly empty but some old bunches next to the walls, and in the centre the Reading area of the Torah, 3 steps high. Chinese hand painted tiles were laid in 1762 on the synagogue’s flour, a total of 1100 tiles were brought over from Canton in China, no one of the tails alike. On the western wall towards the east there is a red cover, behind there are at some Torah books with golden & silver crowns. (not to be seen only on ceremonies.) Every Friday & Suturday there is a ceremony, for Jews only. Jewish people are invited to come for Minian, as there are only 15 men & women in the congregation.
On the Second flour there is Esrat Nashim, behind a wooden decoration.

Moses Pereya from the Jewish community in Amsterdam send from Cochin his report on 1686. That first & most important historical document that was ever written or published of the Jews in Cochin: There were 4 synagogues and 128 families in Cochin, another 4 synagogues in the greater area with around 62 families and 550 people.

On the celebration of the 400th anniversary of the Synagogue, with the presents of Smt. Indira Gandhi, Prime Minister of India, and a special stamp and first day cover were issued, there was great pride of all sides.

It’s exciting for me to see that kind of respect for my people. That’s the basic Hindu perception to the ‘other’ on general. Hindu have great tolerance to others no matter what & who they are, or of what religion.

When most of that Indian community arrived in Israel on 1949, with great excitement – the BIG Question rose, like time and again –
Who is a Jew?

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Marco Pola - A traveller (f)

Traveling to Cochin, the Indian way(*)

Cochin, India 6/3/08

I am on my way to Cochin. (The old Jewish town).
I arrived in Pondicerry and with the help of a nice driver I managed to conduct the difficult task of buying a train ticket. To buy a ticket one should order days in advance, also to fill a full form of personal details: Name, age, address etc. Other wise one is traveling in the compartment that is open to all the crowed.

Cochin, The Jew Road

I took the first train to Villupuram. It was 8 rupees only for 1 hour trip. People were asleep on the benches, loud voices and shouting were every were. Suddenly a really scruffy woman came, a beggar, looked at me and she could not leave the sight of me. Every minute she moved to a different seat until eventually she sat opposite me, moving away the woman that was sitting opposite me. She was with no shoes and some teeth messing, but she was looking at me with a big smile. I was looking at the other end, trying to void an eye contact but she continued to stair at me. Every time we had an eye contact, she smiled pleasantly at me like she is the happiest person in the world. Happily I left the train on my station.

I was with 3 heavy bags, there was no way I will go with them to the box office to buy a ticket to my next destination. As I am a stranger, people start immediately to talk to me. They are looking for any excuse to start a conversation. So I am using it too, to find out were I should go for my next train.

A nice family started a conversation with me, in the end the husband volunteered to buy me my ticket to Tirucuchchirapali. It’s even difficult to say the mane of the town… The lovely family of 3 = parents and a kid at the age of 10, were so happy to help me, talking hardly any English, but all smiling.

The right train arrived. A mass of people that came from all over jumped into the train, I followed the nice family. The train was packed to the brim!!! there were no places to seat or hardly any way to stand. Suddenly a man came close and said to me that it’s not a place for me to travel in that compartment, and he helped me out in a rush with my bags to move to the reserved seats. He said to me: There is only some chance of having a space to seat on the flour… I said OK.
I got in. That compartment was full to the brim too, but the people looked tidyer, like middle class. I had just about a space to stand up. Eventually after 2 hours sitting on the flour, I set down between a nice Indian family of 15 that traveled with thier olds & babies to a Holy Temple festival. With the skarf of her Surri a woman did a cradle that was tied to the top rake, and her baby rested for the 4 hour journey peacfully.

I arried at my station, lots of peple left in a harry to their destinatins. Now I was looking for the night train to Cochin. I bought an ordinary ticket as there was no sleepers at the last moment, but there is always a chance! I was told.
Even that I was first, there were only 3 places in the sleepers and they were given to American-Indians with kids, that spoke the local langwich.

I slept on the couch, took out my pillow, and slept most of the night, opposite to a nice young woman.

At 06.45 I arrived to Ernakulam, a town next to Cochin, and took a Riksha car to Cochin! It was a bright morning, the town was waking up.
Now I am staying in a homely place – Orion Holidays, with hot water!
I must say I am enjouing every minute of it.

(*) p.s. I did not travel the Indian way – as they are booking their tickets weeks, months in advance.

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Adventure & Stability

Only on my travels I realised how much I wanted this trip to happened!
To happened…?
The main problem is the starting point and than the decision.
The road leads me now.
I have to listen to the wind and to my body.

In Aurovelle, every one have a scooter, motorbike or at lists a bike.
The distances are so vast between places, that’s it’s a must, other wise one is imprisoned within one’s room.
So, Marco Pola decided to rent a scooter!!!! Out side Auroville it’s real India
I was given in half an hour a driving lessons on the scooter, and there you go to the road! My stomach was shaky. I must say it’s very tempting.
It fills young and adventures, the wind blows in my face & heart… one fills free!

I said to the nice Indian guy in the shop; “I will take the scooter, just take me back to Auroville where I am familiar with the country roads, and the traffic is diluted. First I will go to the Internet shop, for a short time.” The guy noted with his head = the Indian way, that’s all clear & agreed. I went to the Internet shop, where I am always loosing myself between the words.

Two hours later as agreed, I called the Indian guy to come with MY scooter.
5 minutes he said. In Indian time = it means easily 1-1 1/2 hours. so I waited.
Two guys arrived. “Are you taking me on MY scooter back to Auroville?” I asked.
“No, we gave it to someone else by mistake.” one said uncomfortable. I could not believe it! We agreed that I will take that scooter! (it’s the busy season so scooters have a big demand.)

I suddenly realized that maybe they saw that I was not convinced that I am capable of riding the scooter on the road…. That’s some-thing of the Indian nature – understanding without words.
So, I went back to the shop looking for a bike.
The first thing one have to learn in India is to float, to go with the stream.

I hired an old Indian bike. The guys in the shop said it’s only 15 minuets ride to ‘Creation’ where my Guest Hours is. I went lost for a wile. It took me an hour and a half, riding on strange roads, to reach ‘Creativity’

I want to stay longer in Auroville. To stay a wile longer to see that interesting place.
Is it the security I am missing?
Am I missing home and finding it a save shelter? that gives me confidence in that vast strange continent.
Is it fear?
The fear of the unknown, luck of security, facing loneliness.

I just had lunch in the Solar Kitchen. It caters for over 1000 people every lunch time, with in one hour. That kitchen does not use electricity, only solar power, and the food is mostly organic! There is no frying, just cooked food or steamed, also fresh salad & fruit. The price one pays is just to cover costs.
Can one ask for more?

The adventure got strong horse powers, the fear too.

The Indian guy that gave me my quick lesson on the scooter said to me:
“If you do not afraid, you will be a good driver!”
He is so bloody right!

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Security & Trust

Rising sun. Every day a new arisen, a new day, a new luck.

One of the basic things that we have, and we don’t consider it as a daily miracle – it’s the daily raising of the sun.

Day by day, since we are born, we go to sleep at dark and we get up when the sun is up firm, new, strong, powerful and alive.
We give a glance at the window and the light is all over the room, and we are ready to start our busy lives.

Once in a while we are taken by surprise from the beauty of the rising sun or the sunset. If it happends and we have the time to share with nature, to consume the beauty that we see, not just as an obvious matter. (the only time some of us see the sun rises is on a rash day taking a flight somewhere.)

Day by day we are up in the morning and the sun is up waiting to cheer us up! The sun embraces us daily with warmth and a smile. Undoubtedly, we see & feel it as it gives each one of us the security to go on with our daily routine. No hesitation or concern about the basic existence of our world.
We cannot even imagine the world without the sun, it’s so obvious it will appear tomorrow again!

Our basic security in life is the knowledge that tomorrow what ever happens, the sun will rise again with a smile. (the ‘smile’ is :-)seen individually, some see the sun with a grim face.)
Our basic security in life is based on that knowledge. Can we imagine our lives without the sun up there?
Is it possible to think of our existence without knowing that the sun will rise tomorrow morning again?

On sleepless nights (like I had tonight), one is turning in bed for hours, getting up to drink some water, going to the toilet once or twice, and than the questions arises, or more so the prayer: I wish the sun will get up there!
Our nightmare will be over, we’ll start our daily routine, and we’ll forget our little prayer. But can we start our day to day life without the sun watching us from above?

I was lucky to choose to go to a 4 day course: Polarity therapy and wellness, presented by Mikael Spector.
In that workshop the point of trust was raised up.

We are dealing with the subject of TRUST unconsciously and it’s one basis to reach a peace of mind. It’s about trusting yourself and trusting others. On a different level, it’s the trust & knowledge & the security that we have – that the sun will rise again tomorrow.

Mikael Spector is a man that projects his knowledge, healing abilities also his energy in an impact way to his students. I trust my feelings to feel & see it in such a short time. Meeting Mikael had a different level as well for me, as he resembled by personality & even by looks my dear friend Jonathan. (Walters.) I joined the group and immediately it striked me – his resemblance, gesturs, body languish, and even his reach vocabulary.

It’s a very strange feeling to meet a person that brings up someone so vividly from ‘the other world.’
Most people that know me know hat Johnathan was a very special man and dear to me and to my family.
So, meeting Mikael, the Israeli guy that left Israel at the age of 20 to study in the Sri Aurobindo Ashram in India, and since 1987 he settled in Auroville, brings me in a direct way, really like a deja vu to the voices of Johnathan.

As for Jonathan Walters, blessed his soul, the Indian culture was so much his path, his way of life. I think that all his live he longed for India.

Meeting Johnathan Trough Mikael gave me an extra force to trust myself.

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Inside me

I am in Auroville, India
It’s amazing that I came to this remote place for 2 days the most, and I am already 10 days here. and to tell you… it will be difficult to depart.

This place was created 40 years ago and the ideas that led to create the place are unique.
No doubt to my opinion, there were some influences of the Kibbutz ideas, living in a community, building the town with ideas of equalities in mind etc. What is interesting that there is no religious or political ideas involved at all, (political ideas unit the Kibbutz) it’s a community that aims to integrate people from all over the world (40% are Indians). The people choose to do meditation, yoga, etc. as a way of life, and to live in a GREEN invairment, also Money is not the main motive in life.

Going so far way from home it does not mean that I am new, or changed. Leaving home means a big change for every one and especially for me. (Cancer) But I see that it gives more time to be oneself. It gives time to see others, to look at the world in a precise way, but mainly to look inside.

I am like a beginner. I am not used to think only about myself.
We always are used to put bounderies between our self by/with ‘thing we have to do’, giving attention to some one else, obligations of all kinds of things. We do neglect ourselves!

I am obliged to myself – to look inside me.